The vibes? Shifted. Digestivo? Back in your inbox. This week, we tackle the timely matter of how to nourish yourself, mentally and physically, when celestial events and bad personal decision making all but guarantee you’ll need a little something extra. Send us your inquiries, accolades, and invitations to dine at askdigestivo@gmail.com. Un beso (x).
How do you cook and eat seasonally when the season here in New York is cold, wet, and bleak? What can I eat to boost my mood?
Sweet reader of SAD experience, as a Californian and wannabe Californian, we feel your pain and have two somewhat shadily researched but generally delish suggestions: leafy greens and citrus. This winter seems to be lingering particularly hard, so we recommend stocking up on your favorite varieties. Read on for recipes guaranteed to keep you well fed, likely to keep scurvy at bay, and maybe to lift your spirits.
If there’s one thing we learned during the Goop detox, it’s that a mug of hot water with lemon will not cure our winter blues – we instead suggest you go green, and we don’t just mean smoothies. Chard, kale, collards and even broccoli rabe are all most welcome starting points for green shakshuka – doctor the base to your liking with herbs, spices, and chiles, crack in a few eggs, and finish with a dollop of yogurt or a crumbly, salty cheese. Garlicky sauteed greens are excellent to stir into a savory oatmeal, alongside some combination of toasted nuts and seeds, a poached egg, or a sprinkle of parm and cracked pepper. A couple prep-ahead options for those who are short on time: fold cooked down, heftier greens into a pre-spring kuku sabzi or a slow-baked frittata to enjoy straight from the fridge or at room temperature. Or, you could experiment with a savory scone – I (JS) swear by this highly adaptable recipe from Brianna Holt, and have had great success with a mix of blanched and squeezed greens, pickled chiles, cream cheese, and nigella seeds. Prep and freeze to have fresh scones at the ready with minimal butter leakage.
Gorgeous girls, depressed or otherwise, continue to love soup. Caldo verde is a hearty enough option that won’t require a nap afterward. For a lighter bite, this red lentil and chard soup from Ottolenghi drastically improves overnight, and is best enjoyed with a squeeze of fresh lemon. I (SB) continue to be a card carrying member of the legumerati and have had great success pairing beans with greens– either folding the latter into a pot of the former as it nears an end, or slow-cooking collards on a separate burner. As for stews, we’re hard pressed to think of a better use for cavolo nero than Samin’s ribollita, but we are absolutely bookmarking Meera Sodha’s Tuscan kale saag. Those particularly excited by the flavors of South Asia might also try their hand at incorporating mustard greens or Kenji Lopez-Alt’s creamy vegan saag. Come to think of it, saag tends to be a way to make quick use of the bagged greens that may be lingering in your fridge at any given time– we’ve found Priya Krishna’s feta saag to be especially forgiving.
If you’re craving a little fresh crunch, consider the beautifully bitter chicory as you up your salad game – this one from Bar Tartine is outstanding in full form, and more than adequate with just 65% of the ingredients. We’ve sung ample praises of this roasted radicchio and ricotta number from Sarah Jampel. Eric Kim’s pan-seared radicchio with melty taleggio hits similar notes in an even shorter amount of time.
Of course, you could always tuck your greens into a rustic Greek pie – hortopita from the Aegean Island of Ikaria may or may not improve longevity, while aradopita from the northwestern region of Epirus uses a cornmeal crust in place of the more commonly seen phyllo. Can’t decide between salad and pie? Split the difference and skip the Greek element altogether with an elegant radicchio-topped scrap tart from Natasha Pickowicz (which we riffed and wrote about).
If ever there’s a moment to embrace fruit salad, it’s during citrus season. Oranges and grapefruits pair beautifully with thinly sliced fennel, red onion, green or black olives and a simple sherry vinaigrette. (Parts or all of this same salad are delicious when heaped over a side of salmon and slow roasted with lots of olive oil.) Or, take things in a yum som direction with crispy shallots and garlic, toasted coconut, peanuts, and a Thai style dressing of fish sauce, lime juice, and chiles – we covered a version featuring wild rice in our last letter. This simple number from Smitten Kitchen pairs citrus with mint and feta, but could easily be adapted for other softer cheeses or creme fraiche – with a milder dressing, it might even pass for dessert. Martha suggests a similar preparation with ricotta salata. Of course, a simple bowl of Greek yogurt with some sliced citrus, a pinch of salt, and a drizzle of coriander honey is most welcome at our table, no matter the time of day.
As for citrusy sweets, opportunities abound, many of which could reasonably pass for breakfast. Previously we’ve written about this orange and almond cake, a shortcut riff on Claudia Roden’s boiled, blitzed, and baked delight that also just so happens to be gluten and dairy free (though if dairy is not an issue for you, I beg you serve it with a dollop of schlag or creme fraiche). Alternatively you could go the upside down route, taking cues from Tartine or Sq*rl as you see fit. Another food processor fave is the so-called Lazy Mary lemon tart, which can be easily baked off in a frozen pie crust to no ill effect. If it’s curd you’re after, we love Tartine’s lemon cream, excellent on its own, or lightened with whipped cream and spread into a chiffon tart. For something a little different, try Melissa Clark’s olive oil lemon bars – the character of your olive oil will shine through so choose wisely! I (SB) have had my eye on these intriguing tangerine flan from David Tanis, and will be reporting back in short order. Last but certainly not least, we’d be remiss not to mention our sweetened condensed milk faves, key lime pie and her kissing cousin Atlantic Beach pie.
Dear Digestivo: As Pisces season begins, I find myself busier than ever during the week and going harder than ever over the weekend (or, er, during the week). Any go-to hangover helpers you’d like to recommend?
First and foremost, delivery exists. Lean in and tip heavily. If you’re the planning type, consider stocking your freezer with friendly fare – my (JS) boyfriend has convinced me that leftover pizza can and should be frozen, perfect for combating hanger and hangovers alike. A reheated slice folded over a fried egg with a little chili oil? Talented, brilliant, incredible, amazing, show-stopping, spectacular, etc. Underbake frozen cookie dough and eat it with a spoon, letting it cool just enough to prevent burning your mouth – a scoop of Haagen Dazs vanilla speeds up the process and fucking slaps.
Hangover management is in fact a delicate art requiring us to be in touch with our bodies and spirits. I (SB) often experience an incredibly rocky stomach in the wee hours following over-indulgence, exacerbated by a lack of sleep. Did you know alcohol interrupts your sleep? I certainly have learned! As a result, I often need a soothing start before leaping into cheese-and-carb based remedies (which, to be clear, I do enjoy and endorse.) Taking the advice of the internet’s dubious “big sister” Tinx (big sisters are often agents of chaos, don’t forget) I frequently begin my hangover day by reminding myself that the off-the-charts hangxiety I’m experiencing is in fact a ~*chemical reaction*~ that will pass. Then, I take a probiotic and drink some warm lemon water to feel more in control of my life. Depending on the severity of the problem, it might also be an occasion for some herbal medicine. If possible, I like to turn to intensively savory broth based meals: matzo ball soup, instant ramen, haejang-guk (if you’re so lucky), soondubu jjigae… you get the idea. I also sip a little hydration cocktail: iced pedialyte, lime, and a little chaat masala consumed via straw, preferably at a recline. After this long runway, I’m usually ready for the greasy meal that will bring me back to life around sunset: the aforementioned pizza; hot white rice with fried eggs and kimchi; a BLT; still-hot doubles with channa and aloo have been some recent favorites.
PETITS FOURS
I (SB) enjoyed a transcendent meal at Cha Kee, a new restaurant housed in the space formerly (currently?) known as Cha Chan Tang on Mott Street. Currently BYOB and cash only, go with a group and order as much of the menu as you can. (Pete Wells, FWIW, agrees with me.)
A slice of almond joy pie has me (JS, someone with no authority on the topic) increasingly convinced that HiFi all-day cafe Doubting Thomas has one of the best pastry programs in all of Los Angeles
Reading anything good recently? We’ve been catching up on high-quality scammer journalism, including this profile of Delvey-adjacent Danielle Miller. It pairs well with saying Unka Jahmz out loud repeatedly.
Curious about the real lived stakes of sanctions? Alex Finley is on the case.