028: You Know That We Are Living in a Material World
There's just 72 things we need; plus, a recipe for Mariah Carey's salmon diet
(SB) Sweet readers, welcome to our first annual gift-guide-extravaganza! Jake and I have been hard at work online shopping in service of the newsletter, and we hope you find some sorely needed escapism in what we’ve gathered here, like rabid consumerist squirrels preparing for a long, dark, winter. I have little to report, beyond a new “write my dissertation daily” routine (*in my Princess Margaret* simply dreadful!), and so I’ll keep this introduction short (just like the daylight). This time of year has historically been both challenging and joyful, marked for decades(!) by the mad-dash through final papers (and final grading) to winter break. I’m lucky to have neither this year, but long for the feeling of agreeing to another round, despite having too much to do, with a friend at a bar. I miss browsing in bookstores and eating in dimly-lit restaurants. I feel like playing hooky, but there’s nowhere to go. These are fortunate sadnesses, that speak to how lucky I am to be able to stay safe when many are struggling. And, I hope that by making some space for the small things we’re mourning, we can perhaps move through this season with a smidge of extra grace.
Here’s a little of what I ate last week:
Meera Sodha’s Gujurati corn-on-the-cob curry
A tasty and swift chana masala with kale, courtesy of Chandra Ram’s Instant Pot Indian cookbook.
Lots of leftovers! I cooked a duck last Thursday, as per Ina’s instructions (JS: my impact). A feature is likely forthcoming, suffice to say I got a lot out of rendering fat in the past week.
(JS) I am loathe to use the phrase “Sunday Scaries,” but in my silly little brain there is perhaps no better descriptor for the wild ride between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Despite the fact that for the first time in my life I have nothing resembling final exams or end of semester deadlines (🤓), I just can’t manage to shake that old Gregorian angst around due dates. Instead of acting out, I’m trying to quell my anxieties with organizational projects to remind myself the calendar can be my friend. Aspiring productivity consultant and friend of the newsletter Caro gave me an impromptu but most thorough primer on Trello last week and I now feel I could probably record their podcast ads. I’m getting back in the swing of long term meal planning. And of course, preparing our first ever gift guide was a most welcome source of calm. I hope you find some joy in reading it and perhaps find something unexpected for you or a special someone.
This week I was feeling tropical, enjoying dishes such as:
A lechón style grill-roasted pork shoulder, served with tostones and an improvised mojo-y slaw
Coconut tres leches (~find your beach~)
Tried to make tepache but fear it’s too sweet for my tastes; I’ve since set my sights on another Mexican fermented beverage, tejuino
THE OFFICIAL DIGESTIVO 2020 HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
(JS & SB) We’re super excited to share with you an especially irreverent and admittedly aspirational gift guide! Marcel Mauss could never! This is basically just an amped up version of our weekly wishlist, organized into verkakte categories for somewhat easier viewing. (NB: We got a little carried away with content this week; make sure to click through for the full stories in case G**gle clips the message).
It’s no secret that we’re real pottery heads at this newsletter. Carol Joo Lee’s hand thrown stoneware cups come in a variety of sizes, whether you prefer just a splash or a big gulp; the calming visual gradients are finished in a soft satin matte for extra smooth sipping. HEA’s cherry pit plate is perfect for the practical snacker; the pit compartment can also hold a dollop of dip or your condiment of choice. Equally practical, though perhaps less so for snacking, are the “rentrayage” wares from Nicolas Fasano, one of a kind designs made from broken shards. And for the breast little wares your money can buy, hit up Busted Ceramics’ holiday preorder.
We’re also sort of potheads. Or at least we like to partake from time to time. If you’re looking to upgrade your paraphernalia this holiday season, might we suggest a rainbow kitty pipe from DCN porcelain? If you’d rather something fruity, Edie Parker flower has a few colorful options, while Summerland ceramics (makers of this newsletter’s favorite bong) offers this understated apple pipe. Those who prefer paper might enjoy a made-to-order resin ashtray from Eau Claire; select from their many floral designs or email them to commission a custom version.
For baked goods, Panettone by Roy is the it panettone of the internet, though trusted sources say the delivery date can be a bit of a gamble. San Francisco’s Knafeh Queens are also shipping their award-winning sweet and salty Palestinian treats in king (tray), queen (pie), and individual sizes; just pop them in the oven and pour over a bit of simple syrup for a dessert fit for royalty. New Yorkers might indulge in a pastry box from Extra Helpings, an inventive community microbakery from Miro and Shilpa Uskokovic based in Sunnyside; specials change weekly, but past hits include salty peanut butter pretzel rice krispy treats, malted cinnamon snickerdoodles and sour cherry cream cheese buns. If your sweet tooth craves something a little extra special (wink wink), check out HomeGrown NYC for infused desserts and after dinner drinks; we recommend the infused coquito & apple cider.
‘Tis definitely the season for little indulgences, and those of you looking to send a loved one some sugar during a historically tricky year for dental work might consider some umami rich soy sauce caramels from online wonderland Kim C’s Market, or some equally unexpectedly flavored apple cider caramels from Sebastopol-based orchard little apple treats (we’re particularly intrigued by the cold brew caramels as well as the rose petal and cocoa nib). Chocolate fiends will surely find something to excite from Austin-based chocolatier, Madhu chocolate; the limited edition Lakshmi Collection box is particularly beautiful.
If you’re looking for some pantry-based presents, might we suggest a 5-liter jug of Grove and Vine’s 2020 blend? The de facto Digestivo olive oil (thanks to a super sale at Chef Collective in April) is excellent for cooking and finishing alike, with a slightly peppery finish. If you’re seeking something a little more funky, try the ssamjang from San Francisco Korean superette Queens, flavored with homemade fennel kimchi puree (New Yorkers can find it at Dimes Market). Those wishing for more instant pleasure might enjoy a sampler box from Noodelight, a curated selection of spicy, soupy, and dry-sauce instant noodles from all across Asia; they also have non-spicy and pork-free options, as well as a “movie night” sampler with snacks. What better way to say “I love and see you” than a large box of instant ramen? We can think of none. For anyone with a friend or two mourning the loss of indoor group fitness in our new era, may we suggest a holiday tin of everyone’s favorite yoga-studio snack? Signature packaging from 2019 might complete the trip down memory lane.
Is tinned fish a weird gift? Not in our house! Unless you’re Jeremy Piven in Speed the Plow, we at Digestivo believe you can never have too much tuna; Ortiz Bonito del Norte wins our vote for packaging and taste, while Dongwon red pepper is an appealing, spicy alternative for Korean tuna pancakes or chamchi-jjigae. We’re dying to try the Spanish sardines and mussels from PYSCIS conservas, but they’re quite difficult to get stateside; much easier to find are boquerones, vinegar-marinated anchovies we famously enjoyed on camera for Lunch Break.
Ideas for kitchen tools from a cooking newsletter? Groundbreaking! Absent-minded mandoline users will benefit from this cut resistant glove, while those of you with a penchant for freezer tetris will love some leak proof silicone food storage bags. We also love this sexy little moka from Alessi for design freaks with insatiable caffeine habits. And we wholeheartedly recommend these kitchen shears for a wide variety of culinary tasks, especially carving roast chickens.
When it comes to luxurious loungewear, we’re most intrigued by this homecoat from Off Hours, a vaguely designy solution to wearing your comforter as clothing. In fact, we basically can’t stop thinking about it and are open to being brand reps in exchange for even a moderate discount here. Please call us. It’s high time to lean into the robe and slippers lifestyle, if you haven’t already. Those of us facing a long dark winter might consider this classic terry cloth robe from Snowe or this plush little waffle number from Parachute as post-shower palliatives (JS: I’m a tried and true waffle head myself). For something a little more lightweight, the colorful prints and generous pockets in these organic cotton robes from Los Angeles-based Block Shop caught our eye and stoked our West Coast fantasies.
House shoes have been a real game changer for the WFH ensemble. Friend of the newsletter Faye sold me (JS) on Sabah babas, and if I weren’t so sweaty (sorry) I’d probably invest in a shearling-lined pair as well. Meanwhile, notorious island-hopper Kim Kardashian tempted me (SB, an idiot) with these adorably over-the-top Skims slides and I’ve barely resisted. Should you find yourself still venturing out into the world, friend of the newsletter and part-time professional gift giver Kelly tipped us off to these waterproof Subu slippers, which may soon become the official dog walking shoe of this newsletter. And for those blessed with warmer temperatures, friend of the newsletter Kinga loves Freedom Moses slides, which are basically plastic Birkenstocks but with better color options.
It’s a tough time to be such beautiful people, locked away as many of us are in our individual Zoom towers. Regardless, it’s nice to look nice, and I (SB) have felt cute rocking my DEFUND POLICE earrings from Brittany Reyes and even cuter knowing half the proceeds go towards stocking the Uptown Fridge. Another fun option for the pierced plant people in our lives are these monstera earrings from RAHA. A chic mask is also sure to be appreciated all across your gift list: we love these indigo-and-cotton Japanese patterned masks from Kiriko in Portland, as well as this black and gold reversible (!) mask from Harlem-based designer Imani Lia.
Perhaps you’ve scaled back your skincare regimen in quar, what with the not really seeing people and all; here are a few products we can get behind, even from a distance. Those craving a spa pedi might try Baby Foot peel, a Japanese exfoliation treatment with a cult following; prepare for something simultaneously alarming and deeply satisfying (wear socks in the days after applying for best results, and/or prepare to vacuum). If you’re using your isolation as an opportunity to transition to natural deodorant, I (JS) quite enjoy the offerings from Sam’s Natural, especially the bay and cedar scents. Those of us eyeing our split ends as the weather grows dryer and venturing out for a trim feels riskier might consider a weekly scalp massage with this ethically sourced and potent cold-pressed moringa oil from Moringa What. And we both pine for pretty much anything from Parisian apothecary Buly 1803 (the branding! It’s so strong!). For some responsibly luxe handwashing, why not treat someone (or yourself) to a gorgeous bottle of Huile de Savon (or try a bar, if that’s more your speed).
Speaking of individual Zoom towers, maybe you’re taking this holiday season as an opportunity to spruce up your home. An artful lazy susan from Concrete Cat is sure to enliven your tabletop and relieve you of some dish passing duties after another night of home cooking. We also recommend taking a break from doom scrolling to gaze upon one of our great public squares, pictured in AOC’s Green New Deal poster collection; they’re union made, with real WPA-Vibes! If you’re looking to burn some cash on dreamy home scents, might we recommend this incense discovery set from Blackbird? Our holiday candle pick is Breakfast Leipzig from DS & Durga; think feu de bois crossed with your favorite bakery.
The following category, simply called “gifts for beating it,” merits no further explanation: this rattan rug beater; coconut-based CBD lube by Foria; a classic Kitchenaid stand mixer; and a curated set from Dame Products.
We’d love to buy several people in our lives an in-person drink, but we’re hoping they’ll settle for delivery for now. Often seeking a low-ABV dinnertime beverage, we’ve been intrigued by The Rare Barrel’s Tale of Two Persimmons beer, Ebb’s salty watermelon Gose No. 1, and many of the offerings from Japanese Brazilian brewery Japas Cevejaria, all available for delivery in New York via Taproom (they also ship nationwide!). Hot on the trail of our Makku obsession, we’re looking to expand our makgeolli consumption, and are especially eager to try small-batch Hana Makgeolli, available for local delivery and pickup from their distillery in Greenpoint, or by mail elsewhere.
For exciting Empire State libations, we tapped friend of the newsletter Alex Rosanelli, Winemaker at Hound’s Tree, for a few of his current favorites: “Master Somm (requisite moment for a very deep cringe) Pascaline Lepeltier directs production on the French (vinifera)/native American (labrusca) hybrid (and all around fun to say) Chepika Catawba Pet Nat; it drinks like a fizzy glass of pink sweet-tarts in the best possible way. Cider aficionados might try Foral Terranes ‘Suburban Moraine,’ which is tannin driven and savory with only the slightest effervescence. Erik Longabardi sources abandoned, wild and crab apples from throughout suburban Long Island, including such rarified terroirs as the eastbound side of the Grand Central Parkway. If you like orange wine, buy Channing Daughters ‘Meditazione’ and stop reading. If you hate the chalky ramatos on every hip BTG program, this is a wine to change your mind. Super polished tannin and fresh, juicy acidity with layers of dried apricot and hot-nuts-stand energy. And in a shameless plug, I’d suggest our Manzanilla-style “En Rama'' sherry (available at our Bedford Ave location). Aged under flor to strip back the fresh fruit character and reveal an underlying saline base, it’s glorious with cured meats and hard cheese (a major food group for me this year). It also makes a pretty decent 50:50 martini.”
As for our namesake beverage, we have a few suggestions: Faccia Brutto Amaro Alpino, for the folks who cant stop instagramming their Forthave; Amaro Angeleno, for sipping on ice and thinking wistfully about how Los Angeles was once covered in orange groves; Banane du Bresil, for a most memorable Manhattan with notes of warm banana bread; and Matchbook Distilling Sweet Triumph peated cask apple brandy, enjoyed per Alex’s rec as an old fashioned with a hearty splash of Fernet Valet.
For the sober goths, we heartily recommend treating yourself (and others, perhaps) to the fruits of a long browse over at McNulty’s Online Tea Shop, for some special brews or merch, a beloved in-person ritual that felt surprisingly fun to me (SB) digitally. Those looking for a little more subcontinent sweetness in your chai time might consider a Special Saffron Gift Box from New York-based Kolkata Chai Co; a pack of Parle-G biscuits and a greeting card from Pyarful would delight just about every auntie on my list. Those in search of sophisticated, no-ABV cocktails to accompany their adventures in fine dining are likely to find a project or two in Julia Bainbridge’s recently released Good Drinks. And anyone craving a little funky flavor and light fermentation without themselves getting pickled might try a shrub from Salt Lake’s small batch maker Drupefruit; they release new flavors weekly.
Lest you think we’re merely materialists, we’ll round things out with some of our favorite experiential gifts; we swear, these are Zoom activities to look forward to! For those wishing for a little virtual hand holding in tackling some new recipes, we might suggest an virtual Ukrainian dumpling class with Olia Hercules, a membership with monthly live-stream privileges in The Edible Club, or anything from Chicano Eats by Esteban Castillo. And for anyone seeking a little guidance during these most uncertain times, we’d recommend a virtual tarot reading with friend of the newsletter and gemini double scorpio Sewa Adekoya. It’s how we got through college.
NUTS 4 DEEZ NUTS
(SB) In Decembers that don’t feature a highly contagious global pandemic, friend of the newsletter Eric traces his way East from San Francisco, stopping in his ancestral Wisconsin home for Christmas before spending the New Year in the Big Apple with his old pal Sal. Often, he comes with a jar of his mother’s holiday spiced and candied nuts. This year, missing Eric and eager to send off a few homemade presents to those I’d normally celebrate with, I decided to try my own hand at two (!) holiday nuts preparations.
My first batch was a dupe of my all time favorite nuts, found in my mother’s hometown of Chittur, Kerala: red-skinned peanuts, deep fried in coconut oil in an enormous copper vat (also used for flying banana chips), flavored with a combination of curry leaves and chili powder, and wrapped in waxed paper. Spicy and pungent from the curry leaf, they are transcendent when enjoyed by the handful alongside a beer or, even better, a mild scotch & soda. Based on my pantry nut stash, I adapted this recipe by putting a combination of peanuts and cashews in hot oil with about 20 curry leaves. It’s tough to gauge when a nut is done frying (JS: is this a proverb?), but waiting until the bubbling within the pan began to slow down was a good guideline. Drain the nuts and curry leaves on paper towels and toss with a little salt and chili powder to taste while still hot. You may find yourself topping with extra fried curry leaves, as I did. They’re not the original, but they are subtle, complex, and delicious.
I also tried my hand at Meera Sodha’s recipe for “The Queen’s Bombay Nuts” (or rani ke chevda) because, well, how could I resist, with a name like that? A nice alternative to deep frying, Meera’s instructions had me coat a mixture of nuts (I went with cashews, peanuts, walnuts, almonds, and a few pistachios) in canola oil before tossing them in a dry-mix of salt, chile powder, garam masala, sugar, turmeric, and chickpea flour (I bet you could tweak to your liking!!). Quelling any lingering grumbling about the colonial spice trade, the nuts get spread on a baking sheet and placed in a 300 degree oven for about 30 minutes. Once cool, they’re an aromatic and salty pleasure to behold, and convinced me, yet again, that garam masala is indeed a holiday spice.
GRAVLAX FOR ALL SEASONS
(JS) The Silver Palate’s gravlax recipe is a mainstay of the Stavis Thanksgiving cocktail spread, but I’d humbly suggest you can and should make this easy and impressive dish any time of the year. Not to be confused with Nova, which is smoked, gravlax is cured in a 50/50(ish) mix of salt and sugar that’s delicately flavored — in this case, with cracked black pepper, fresh bunches of dill and just a splash of alcohol. Aquavit is traditional, but vodka works in a pinch; I suspect you could experiment with mezcal or even scotch for a whiff of smoke, but haven’t tried it myself. You could get creative with your spicing (perhaps some fennel seed, aleppo pepper, and lemon zest) or throw in grated beets for blush hues and a bit of earthy sweetness, but to me the original preparation reigns supreme. Curing your own fish might sound intimidating, but rest assured this is an entry-level exercise. In fact, gravlax is largely a hands off affair: after just ten minutes of active work (save for a quick flip every twelve hours or so), you’re well on your way to deliciously buttery salmon to enjoy with breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
After a couple days' rest beneath a weighted saran wrap blanket (ahead of her times!), remove the fish from the fridge and use your sharpest knife to delicately slice it on the diagonal. Butchering takes a bit of practice, but the scraps make for excellent snacking (SB: cats everywhere are agitating for you to try your hand at this). You can serve your gravlax on little toast points as suggested in the cookbook, or stacked atop bagels and schmear with tomatoes, capers, and red onion. I love it with latkes (‘tis nearly the season) or their lazier cousin, warm potato chips. Many enjoy gravlax alongside scrambled eggs, or in an elegant Nordic inspired salmon benedict. Some might suggest you tuck your gravlax into a creamy pasta, but frankly that is just not my ministry. No matter your vehicle, make sure to serve it with The Silver Palate’s signature dill mustard sauce, a lush sour cream concoction that tastes great on pretty much anything.
PERMANENT ROTATION: Smitten’s chocolate olive oil cake. I (JS) don’t think I’ve made another chocolate cake since I tried this. It’s somehow at once both marvelously rich and sort of springy and just so happens to be vegan. You can make it in a single bowl and probably have most if not all of the ingredients in your pantry; do use coffee in place of water for extra depth of flavor. The salted ganache is delicious, but I’ve also had great success baking two of these as a layer cake with coconut cream cheese frosting and toasted coconut for my dad’s birthday.
WISH LIST
(JS) A cleaver. Maybe this one?
(SB) A nice bottle of Japanese Whisky (here, or here for some promising leads) to enjoy with my nuts, and (still) a hydroponic garden.
(JS & SB) Honestly this is gratuitous. See above.
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